“Chasing angels or fleeing demons, go to the mountains.”
― Jeffrey Rasley
A few months in the city and restlessness seeps in. The urge to get away from ‘it all” becomes stronger and stronger till it turns irresistible! And can there be a better place to get away than to the Himalayas – the abode of the Gods! The Himalayas don’t call. They are good in their solitude, standing tall, silent and strong. It is we who need to find our calling and follow them.
A year had passed since my last trek to the Pin Parvati valley in Himachal and it was time to go back to the Himalayas. The lure of summiting Stok Kangri at 6153 mts/20180 ft. was becoming an increasingly attractive proposition. I was excited about the fact that it would be my highest climb so far and in trekking circles it qualifies one for higher and more technical climbs. I was also thrilled about the fact that I would be in Leh for a few days before the trek for acclimatisation and Leh has always been a photographer’s delight and it was no different with me. The thought of climbing a mountain and also getting to photograph the alluring vistas even before the trek fired me up and all preparations began in earnest.
― Jeffrey Rasley
A few months in the city and restlessness seeps in. The urge to get away from ‘it all” becomes stronger and stronger till it turns irresistible! And can there be a better place to get away than to the Himalayas – the abode of the Gods! The Himalayas don’t call. They are good in their solitude, standing tall, silent and strong. It is we who need to find our calling and follow them.
A year had passed since my last trek to the Pin Parvati valley in Himachal and it was time to go back to the Himalayas. The lure of summiting Stok Kangri at 6153 mts/20180 ft. was becoming an increasingly attractive proposition. I was excited about the fact that it would be my highest climb so far and in trekking circles it qualifies one for higher and more technical climbs. I was also thrilled about the fact that I would be in Leh for a few days before the trek for acclimatisation and Leh has always been a photographer’s delight and it was no different with me. The thought of climbing a mountain and also getting to photograph the alluring vistas even before the trek fired me up and all preparations began in earnest.
A very much underestimated peak, Stok Kangri needed
intense preparations and good physical and mental fitness as well.
View from the flight |
Thiksey Monastery |
2 days were spent getting acclimatised by visiting monasteries, walking up to them, going to Khardung La, spending time there, and then a small acclimatisation hike up to Namgyal Tsemo, from where the entire Leh market could be seen soaking in the last rays of the setting sun.
The Pristine Stok Village |
The expedition began from trekking point (3565 mts) in Stok Village, but not before spending a night in a home stay at Gyap-Thago. Located in serene surroundings amidst lush mustard fields and the Stok Kangri in the background, this well spent day provided the much-needed elixir before the start. Home-made thukpas, momos, salad fresh from the fields and butter tea were the highlights of this stay apart from the pristine surroundings.
Our tents at Mankorma - 1st camp |
The trail |
Very soon, dusk ushered in darkness with a beauty of
its own supplemented by countless stars and the milky way. In the confines of
my tent, I slipped into my sleeping bag hearing the soothing sound of gushing
waters from the nearby stream breaking the silence of the night.
“Trekking means a travelling experience with a thrilling excitement.”
― Amit Kalantri
“Trekking means a travelling experience with a thrilling excitement.”
― Amit Kalantri
Expedition
day 2: Our next destination was the Base
camp located at an altitude of 4980 meters. Located 5.5 kms from Mankorma, it
took us 3 hrs to traverse this distance. Though the altitude gain wasn't as
much as the previous day, but 500 meters gain in a day was sufficient for the
headache to recur in many of us. We continued hydrating ourselves with the
mandatory 4 litres of water per day.
The
base camp is a busy place! Trekkers preparing for the summit, some reaching back
after a successful summit, some taking a day's rest before their attempt, all
imparted a sort of seriousness to the place. There wasn't a
jovial or festive atmosphere, even though there was a colorful look to the place. A thousand questions played on my mind about my
summit attempt scheduled for the next day, and I tried to allay my fears by not
thinking of it. But as much as I tried I couldn't get Stok away from my
thoughts. The fact that this would be my first 6000+ meter climb was throughout
in my mind.
A bird's eye view from the 4G point |
The trail |
Looking down from the top, the base camp looked very tiny, nestled in the bottom of a big bowl, lined by Gholep Kangri on one side and the Stok Kangri on the other. Looking ahead, a long winding trail showed the path for the next day.
An early 7 pm dinner followed.
Soon twilight gave way to darkness and as is in the
mountains, the sky came alive with a million stars glittering.
“Though my soul may set in darkness, it will rise in perfect light;
I have loved the stars too fondly to be fearful of the night.”
― Sarah Williams
in the way of my plans.
“Though my soul may set in darkness, it will rise in perfect light;
I have loved the stars too fondly to be fearful of the night.”
― Sarah Williams
The Milky way rose
over the peaks and provided yet another glimpse into the vast universe.
One of
the reasons I love being at night in the mountains is this magnificent sight. The
clear air, absence of lights exposes the naked night sky in all its glory.
I decided
to try my hand at astrophotography and brought out my tripod which I had
carried all the way here in anticipation of some good pictures. I wasn’t going to
let the howling mountain wind and freezing night get Expedition day 3:
"In every walk with nature, one receives far more than one seeks"
- John Muir
That night I slept well, satisfied with the photos I had managed to click. I got up feeling fresh and rejuvenated. Tonight would be the night of redemption. After a while the apprehensions began. Will I or won’t I? Will I or won’t I?
Foremost
on my mind was the sleep factor. This trek would start at 10.00 pm and we would
be trekking throughout the night into the wee hours of the morning till we would
summit or till we turn back mid-way. The outcome unsure, my mind loaded with a
fear of the unknown, I carried out my morning activities. I developed a
headache and I wasn't sure if it was the altitude, migraine or just my brain playing
tricks because of my suppressed anxiety. Not wanting to take chances, I popped
up my anti migraine pill as well as a painkiller. Whatever the cause the
headache disappeared after 1/2 an hour and thankfully did not recur
again.
This
being a trekking expedition unlike a simple trek, we were to carry certain
mountaineering equipment. So the rest of the morning was spent in the company
of our guides and Sumeet, our trek lead who familiarised us with the various
terminologies and use of equipment to be used during the summit push. We were
taught the ways of wearing and using the harness, carabiners, crampons and
ropes. We were roped together and made to walk for some distance to make us
comfortable with these alien accessories. All these activities kept my mind
preoccupied and the 'ascent anxiety' away for some time.
Post
lunch instructions were to rest and sleep as much as possible. I tried my best,
but could hardly manage an hour’s sleep. The tent is not a comfortable place to
be in during the afternoon. Even though it is freezing cold at night, the days quite
hot and the tents tend to become warm and suffocating. I had delusional plans
to sleep till 7 pm and get up fresh and raring to go for the summit at 10 pm, but
I could hardly sleep for an hour. By 3 pm I was bored of being
in the tent and since we were blessed with a good weather and clear blue skies,
I decided to kill my time doing some long exposure photography. My trek leader
had strictly instructed me not to carry my DSLR for the summit. He wanted me
and generally all of us to carry as less weight as possible.
I always trek in the anticipation of getting good landscape
photographs, and so my DSLR is a inseparable part of my during my treks
trekking. I was obviously disappointed when
he refused to let me carry my camera. But on a hindsight, I realised that was a
very good decision and thanked him silently for this advice as I dragged myself
during the summit attempt where every gm seemed to be weighing me down.
The clock stuck 10 and we were all ready. A nervous
excitement was palpable. Helmets in place, headlights on, harness with carabiner
worn, crampons in backpack, 2 litres of water, 4 layers of clothing, wind proof
jacket ready to be used if needed. It was 10.15 pm by the time we began our
summit push. With the moon yet to rise, in the pitch-dark night, with the only
light provided by our head lamps we trudged on, our band of 7 trekkers, Sherpas
and our trek leader.
Negotiating a small crevasse at night |
“The best view comes after the hardest climb.” -Anon
The
final ascent: Count 1...2...3...4...30....pause, rest,
count 1...2...3...10. Start 1....2...3.... and so on and on it continued. It apparently hadn’t snowed much the previous winter here. That explained the unusual lack of snow cover at such an altitude. Opinions were divided as to walking on the snow was easier or walking on the exposed boulders as we were all doing! Some parts were sandy and small
pebbles over them was making the climb slippery. 3 1/2 hours climb down and the shoulder
was now visible and within reach or so I thought. A few minutes more and I would be on it. But appearance
in the mountains can be deceptive. What seemed to be within a few minutes reach,
took me ½ hour to reach which seemed like eternity. I heaved myself up on the shoulder and sat down. It
was still dark. 2 of us had reached.
Others were on their way up. I could see
their torch light moving up slowly, inching towards us. The plan now was to
rope us up in 2 batches each as we began our final ascent. The final ascent was
a high ridge about 400 meters high. To negotiate this narrow and exposed ridge
towards the summit roping was necessary. It was cold and windy. We were tired
and sleepy as well after completing almost 8 hrs of climbing and hence the need
for roping.
The wait |
After
15 mins rest, the rope was passed and knotted through our carabiners. The guide
leading us, then me and then 2 of my co trekkers with Sumeet bringing up the
rear. Fatigue had already creeped in mingling with sleep. Fortunately, I had no
pain or cramps and there was enough energy left in me for the final push. But the
climb in dark was taking its toll. The darkness added to the fatigue. I told
myself that 800 meters were done. It was a matter of 400 more. I started
thinking of all bad conditions I was in and considering my profession, there
was plenty to think about. I told myself that this was a cake walk compared to
what I had gone through on many previous occasions and that spurred me and I trudged
on. The only thought in my mind the summit and I visualised myself standing
there, nothing less, nothing more. As we reached the mid-way mark, suddenly a
ray of light appeared on the horizon. It was as if a switch was turned on! This
seemed to brighten the sky and along with it my mood too. No doubt, light is
life. The sleep vanished. With dawn, came hope.
I
stopped and turned around.
The vista around was too stunning. It was as if a
curtain was raised, exposing a magnificent set. My steps developed a spring.
The movements became quicker and the fluttering flags above came into view
indicating that the top was now within reach. A few steps up and a few turns
around and I was on the top with the rest of the team. A shout of joy erupted
from my throat. It was 6.15 am and we had reached well within our cut off time
of 7 am. We were In time to see the sun peeping out from behind the mountains.
I stood next to the fluttering prayer flags removed the national flag and posed
for a picture. Then took a selfie. The highest ever selfie for me at 6153
meters/20180 feet. The Karakoram range was seen in the distance.
We waited for
others to join us and then took a group pic. The cold, wind and the slope made
sure that we couldn't spend more than 15 mins here.
The view from the top |
The Summit at last! |
The descent begins |
The glacier we had crossed on our way up in the dark |
It was the relentless pursuit of a heartless
mountain!!
PS :- (Definition of stoked. slang. : being in an enthusiastic or exhilarated state.)
Acknowlegment:
Dr. Sumeet Mandale,
Trek Leader
Dawa Sherpa,
Instructor, HMI Chief Guide
All my co trekkers
who in their own way contributed for the success
GGIM, Pune who organised
and provided the logistic support