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“The mountains are calling and I must go.” ― John Muir |
This blog is not about the itinerary of my trek. There
are plenty of these available on the net. It's a compilation of the feelings
and thoughts that drifted through my mind as I walked on braving the altitude,
the extremes of day and night time temperatures, the ascent which tested my
heart and lung capacities, the descent which tested my knees and toes. It is
about the victory of mind over the body. It's about a dream come true. It's
about visiting paradise and coming back. There may be higher and more difficult
and dangerous treks, but there cannot be a more beautiful trek.
The mountains had been beckoning since long and I was yearning to visit it. The
time had come to fulfill my desire. Begin a new relationship, not knowing how
it will sustain the ravages of time. Nevertheless a start was made. The choice couldn't have been better. In the lap of the mighty Himalayan peaks,
giving in myself willfully into the arms of one of the most beautiful places on
earth - Kashmir. It was a place where civilization did not exist. I was
beyond the shallow world of all things man-made. God, religion, caste, creed, boundaries
and politics did not exist.
This trek had a hidden agenda. To discover the hidden
lakes, the great alpine lakes of Kashmir, which would unravel themselves only
to those who dared to visit them. Hidden in the valleys between the towering
snow peaks of the mighty Himalayas. This was a Paradise! God, if existed
probably stayed here and was everywhere and in everything.
I will be the gladdest thing
Under the sun
I will touch a hundred flowers
And not pick one.
-Edna st. Vincent, “Afternoon on a Hill”
With every new day, every descent or ascent, or even just
round the corner, new vistas unfolded in front of my eyes.This trek involved walking on snow, strolling in the meadows, crossing rivers,
climbing rocky surfaces... almost everything that a trek is supposed to have. I
wondered as I trekked on, could the sky be more blue, the clouds more white and
the grass more green? At places, the trails were narrow, lined by
small yellow flowers. The wild Himalayan flowers were one thing that stood out
in this trek. I saw them in many hues, yellow, and white, purple and blue. These
small mountain flowers, some blooming in clusters like a bouquet, some growing
in the midst of rocks, some by the riverside. Each flower bloomed by itself in
the wilderness, spreading its fragrance, attracting the bees for
self-propagation and then withering away. They looked unusually fresh in the
crisp and cool mountain air. Their beauty was a sight to behold for those who
dared to reach up to them. The soil and the rocks remain covered by snow for
about 6 months. As temperatures rise with the advent of summer, and the snow
starts melting, greenery sprouts everywhere, interspersed by swathes of yellow,
white and purple. The seeds remain buried all this time, waiting patiently for
their chance, their resilience making them victorious. It’s a sort of
‘Jugalbandhi’ between the snow and the flowers and both win.
“I wonder if the snow loves
the trees and fields, that it kisses them so gently? And then it covers them up
snug, you know, with a white quilt; and perhaps it says "Go to sleep,
darlings, till the summer comes again.”
― Lewis Caroll, Alice's Adventures in Wonderland
Every day had a destination, a place to reach and relax
- the campsite. The fluorescent yellow tents, set midst the green meadows,
surrounded by partially melting snow peaks, the river flowing next to it, the
source of pure, genuine mineral water drunk straight from the source. I always
looked forward to reaching it. It was my home for 7 days. The sight of these
tents soothened my tired body and fatigued mind like an elixir. But the path
was different for each one. I had to ascend sometimes, and occasionally had to
descend to reach it. There was no way one could take the path for granted. It
was beautiful for those who valued it. It was arduous for some, a chore for
others. Every step had to be watched, every moment cherished. A wrong step and this
very path could turn treacherous. As I treaded on it, I thought, ‘Isn’t it the
same in our routine life too?’ We start in the morning, undertake various
chores throughout the day with a result to achieve by the day’s end. Every
decision is like a step taken. A wrong one and the consequences could be
disastrous. I had to be aware of myself, of the steps I take and of my
surroundings.
At places, the clear, blue skies seemed to bend down and
kiss the green earth. The clouds hanged as if suspended by invisible threads.
Occasionally the dark rain clouds came nearer threatening to burst open, but
thankfully it just remained a threat. While walking on the rocks and snow
and crossing rivers I had to be careful, strolling on the meadows was a luxury.
At places, grazing sheep, camouflaged by the stones, dotted the landscape.
There were thousands of them, grazing blissfully taking their own sweet time.
Some of them followed by their young lambs was a visual delight and brought a
smile on my face, the tiredness forgotten.
I always woke up by 4. Daybreak began by then. It was
always chilly in the mornings before the sun rose and covered me with its warm
blanket. Sitting on the rocks, watching the gurgling brooks flow past, the
early rays of the sun imparting a golden hue to the surrounding peaks and braving
the chill was my morning routine. I knew that these moments won’t last forever
and wanted to make the most of it. The cold numbed my body and my thought
process. I couldn’t think of the past, nor contemplate on the future. I was
only in the present then, savoring that moment in time, making an imprint on my
mind, one that would last forever and remain a permanent memory in my mind’s
eye. The water in the rivulets fed by the melting glaciers increased as more
snow melted under the glare of the rising sun. The waters flowing past like
time slipping away, the same waters never return. It is a one-way process.
The lakes were the highlight of this trek. Untouched,
unspoilt, azure blue, alpine lakes. The Vishansar, which changed colors from
morning to late evening. The adjoining Krishansar, which was still partially
frozen. And both of them seen together as we ascended to a altitude of 13000ft.
The Gadsar, i.e a lake full of fish which had a
turquoise hue. The 7 lakes of Satsar, of which we could see 3 lakes. And last
but not the least, the twin lakes of Nandkul & Gangabal over which towered
the inaccessible Harmukh peak at 16000 ft. The placid, still and peaceful
waters of these lakes seemed contagious. Occasionally a breeze blew causing the
surface to ripple a wee bit. The same feeling came over me as I sat on its
banks gazing into the waters for long, the breeze making me shiver a bit.
“Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience.”
― R.W Emerson
The nights were as beautiful as the day albeit different
in it’s own way. The moon grew bigger as the days passed and on our penultimate
day it was so bright that the moonlight lit up the entire valley. The rivers
sparkled and the snow peaks shone in its light. The skies were covered with a
million twinkling stars. Lying on the grass, watching the stars and the few
clouds floating by was a childhood fantasy come true.
“Not just beautiful, though--the stars are like the trees in
the forest, alive and breathing. And they're watching me.”
― Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore
As the trek neared its end, just like all good things
end, a mixed feeling overcame me. Happy at the thought of returning home to my
loved ones, sad at the thought of leaving this Paradise, and going back to a
materialistic world, a egocentric world, of world of ruthlessness and live and
let die. But I have promised myself; I will be back, a promise I mean to
fulfill soon.
PS: This trek called as "The Great Lakes of Kashmir" trek starts at Sonmarg at an altitude of 8000ft. It ends at Naranag agin at around 8000ft after 7 days and 60kms of hiking over a maximum altitude of 13500 ft. My special thanks to 'INDIA HIKES' Tour leaders Tarak, Viral and Dipesh, the guides Noorani and Javed, the support team and all my fellow trekkers who made the journey a lot more easy and full of fun.